Well, there were no fatalities on the 24 hour train ride - we managed to find enough things to keep us all entertained. Ironically, after we had checked into our "hotel" in Yangshuo and seen the state of our rooms suddenly the train didn't look so bad any more. It was the thre D's: dirty, dark and damp. But we're backpackers so we just had to suck it up. This would be the part of the tour that Intrepid calls the "authentic, real life experience." We called it "saving a buck."
Luckily the quaint and colourful town of Yangshuo along with the amazing countryside made up for the squalid conditions of our accomodation. In the area surrounding Yangshuo there are 1000s of these pristine limestone peaks jutting up from the earth. The locals call them the teeth of the dragon, reflecting their shape. The mountains' majestic presence made the landscape look just like those classic Chinese paintings - kinda like the Walt Disney version of China. The locals also refer to Yangshuo as the green lotus because several of the peaks shoot up around the town just like the petals of the lotus blossom.
The weather for the first two days was perfect; at night we went out in our t-shirts. There were several western style bars and restaurants which was a nice change from all the Chinese food we'd been consuming. Don't get me wrong, it's good stuff, but every now and then a girl just needs to sink her teeth into a big juicy burger. Sandwiched between all the bars and restaurants were souvenir venders selling everything from silk scarves, to Chairman Mao figurines, to a little "bang bang" from one of the local girls.
The weather took a turn for the worst and we were trapped in the middle of a classic Chinese downpour for two days straight! Absolutely everything I owned was soaked or damp. We hid out in this bar called Micky's - kinda like an episode of Cheers - because our rooms were too damp to stay in.
We did, however, try to make the best of it. We got the chance to go out to this massive labrynth-like cave system deep in the mountains. It was all lit up with colourful lights and had cathedral-like ceilings. Very beautiful. Later we also took a calligraphy class - which I sucked at - and a cooking class - which I rocked at. I learned some great traditional Chinese dishes that I can make back at home. Yum-o! We hiked up to a viewpoint of the city and watched the Chinese practice their ballroom dancing and Tai Chi in the park. My favorite excursion, however, was the bamboo rafting down the mighty Li River. We got even more wet, but it was well worth it and a lot of fun. The rest of our spare time was taken up by haggling with local shopkeepers for some souvenirs.
We departed Yangshuo early in the morning and took a four-hour bus up to the Longi rice terraces. There weren't enough seats for everyone so some people had to sit on the floor - another "authentic" experience as Intrepid would call it. The road into the mountains was narrow and very windy. There were sheer drops and no barriers. Luckily we had a sensible driver who took things nice and slow.
Halfway up we had to stop because a massive landslide had taken out the entire road. Phoebe our leader was determined not to give up and after a quick phone call she had arranged for a bus to pick us up from the other side. "Come on, just do it!" she cheered as we hoofed it up and over the massive heaps of rocks and rubble. In the end we made it safely to out destination where we hiked again up into the rice terrraces to out hostel for the night. It was pretty basic: the floor boards were creaking and I found a massive Chinese spider in my bathroom. My new Aussie friend took care of it for me - thank god!
In the morning a women from the indigenous Dong minority came to our hostel and was our guide for the four-hour hike to her village. She was dressed in the traditional clothes with brightly coloured embroidery. I was at the front of the group so I followed behind her. It was quite surreal having this women lead us through the thousands of stacked and multi-level rice paddies cut deep into the mountain side. The experience was made even more special when she serrenaded us with traditional songs about the beauty of Longi.
We passed through many villages on this trek. We met some very cute but very mischievious little boys at one. At first glance they seemed sweet and harmless, that was until they started hurling fire crackers in our path, trying to knock us off the trail. One would light and pass it to the other who threw them at our feet. Little punks. Phoebe made sure to give them a proper scolding.
The scenery was incredible and the view around each bend in the trail took my breath away. Definitely will be one of the more memorable moments of this adventure. When we stopped for lunch our guide undid her hair from its intricate pinning updo. The Dong women only cut their hair once: when they get married. Her hair was nearly down to her ankles and not a single grey! Apparently the secret is some kind of rice mixture and washing it in the natural river waters.
We made it to our hotel which was lovely with a great view. In the evening we were entertained by a group of local women who sang and danced for us. They let us participate is some of their traditional dances includeing the bamboo dance - a lot trickier then it first seems. Kelsea was married off to one of the Aussie boys in a traditional cerimony - don't worry I have video. Even though our hostel was surrounded with farm animals like chickens, pigs, goats, etc., it was nice and there were no spiders :)
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Thursday, January 21, 2010
High noon in Shanghai - Jan 18/2010
Our second over night train was 19 hours and took us from the ancient capital of Xi'an to the modern wonder of Shanghai. We arrived around noon the next day. The berths in this train were a lot more open so it was less stuffy and suffocating. However, it was hard to change or do anything with out an audience. The beds in the trains are only about two and a half feet wide, so it's pretty tricky to sleep with out rolling out, especially with the train rocking and a rolling.
Once we arrived in Shanghai I was relieved to find that the air was much fresher then it was in Xi'an. Shanghai is China's largest city with a population of over 22 million. That's close to the population of Canada! It's also hosting the 2010 World Expo.
After we had checked into our hostel we began with the usual orientation walk. Even though there are so many people in Shanghai, the city is suprisingly clean with minimal pollution. Looking around at my surroundings I was feeling very small and insignificant amongst all the towering sky scrapers - the biggest and most elaborate I've seen in my entire life. Definitely not Vancouver. Most of them seemed to have some unique architectural feature. It was almost as though each one was trying to out do the next in their splendour and modernity.
If I thought the city was amazing during the day, then I was totally blown away when nightfall came and the entire place bacame this futuristic glowing metropolis. It was like Vegas on steroids. Club music thumped from every street corner and the arrays of twirling colourful lights lit up the night sky. Whole skyscrapers were covered in colour-changing lights like cameleons that put on their own light show.
The best way to view the city by night is to take one of the many equally brightly lit pleasure cruiser boats along the river. Our group hopped on one and, with beers in hand, we made our way to the top deck to watch the show from the best vantage point.
It was truely amazing. I felt as though I had walked on to some big buget sci-fi movie. I've never seen such a futuristic city-scape. I felt this great contrast between the ancient wonders I had visited earlier (The great Wall, and Terra Cotta Warriors) and this incredible modern wonder.
Unfortunately, my cold got the worst of me and I wasn't able to do much sight-seeing. We did however go to this great big Bazaar in a surprisingly ancient market place. It was fun at first but as the day went on it kept getting more and more crowded. Nudging turned to pushing and pushing turned to shoving and pretty soon I was right mad and ready to serioiusly injure the next person that touched me. There is no such thing as personal space in China. So we sought refuge in an old beautiful Chinese garden. It was very tranquil. The flowing water and swaying trees were very peaceful and I calmed down some.
Later in the evening we had the privledge to see the Shanghai acrobats. Such amazing little people... and they are actually little. They were very talented and the show was amazing. I was a little concerned about the state of some of their equipment however, it looked a little questionable and past it's prime.
At the end of our Shanghai adventure we prepared ourselves to board the longest train journey of our trip - 25 hours (uhg!) - to Yangshou. I'm sure that we'll all be the best of friends by the end...hopefully.
Once we arrived in Shanghai I was relieved to find that the air was much fresher then it was in Xi'an. Shanghai is China's largest city with a population of over 22 million. That's close to the population of Canada! It's also hosting the 2010 World Expo.
After we had checked into our hostel we began with the usual orientation walk. Even though there are so many people in Shanghai, the city is suprisingly clean with minimal pollution. Looking around at my surroundings I was feeling very small and insignificant amongst all the towering sky scrapers - the biggest and most elaborate I've seen in my entire life. Definitely not Vancouver. Most of them seemed to have some unique architectural feature. It was almost as though each one was trying to out do the next in their splendour and modernity.
If I thought the city was amazing during the day, then I was totally blown away when nightfall came and the entire place bacame this futuristic glowing metropolis. It was like Vegas on steroids. Club music thumped from every street corner and the arrays of twirling colourful lights lit up the night sky. Whole skyscrapers were covered in colour-changing lights like cameleons that put on their own light show.
The best way to view the city by night is to take one of the many equally brightly lit pleasure cruiser boats along the river. Our group hopped on one and, with beers in hand, we made our way to the top deck to watch the show from the best vantage point.
It was truely amazing. I felt as though I had walked on to some big buget sci-fi movie. I've never seen such a futuristic city-scape. I felt this great contrast between the ancient wonders I had visited earlier (The great Wall, and Terra Cotta Warriors) and this incredible modern wonder.
Unfortunately, my cold got the worst of me and I wasn't able to do much sight-seeing. We did however go to this great big Bazaar in a surprisingly ancient market place. It was fun at first but as the day went on it kept getting more and more crowded. Nudging turned to pushing and pushing turned to shoving and pretty soon I was right mad and ready to serioiusly injure the next person that touched me. There is no such thing as personal space in China. So we sought refuge in an old beautiful Chinese garden. It was very tranquil. The flowing water and swaying trees were very peaceful and I calmed down some.
Later in the evening we had the privledge to see the Shanghai acrobats. Such amazing little people... and they are actually little. They were very talented and the show was amazing. I was a little concerned about the state of some of their equipment however, it looked a little questionable and past it's prime.
At the end of our Shanghai adventure we prepared ourselves to board the longest train journey of our trip - 25 hours (uhg!) - to Yangshou. I'm sure that we'll all be the best of friends by the end...hopefully.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Walls and Warriors, January 13/2010
On the morning of the 11th we packed our bags and boarded a bus for the Great Wall; the group was eager with anticipation despite the early hour. After three hours of hectic driving, we were able to catch glimpses of the Wall's towers dotted along the mountain range. Finally we arrived and it was freezing! About 5-7 degrees colder then Beijing. We had to shuffle our feet and rub our hands together in order to keep warm while we waited for our guide, Jerry.
I was worried about my knee giving me problems, but I took a gamble and decided to do the grueling four hour hike anyways. There was no way that I would be passing up the experience of a lifetime! As we started the climb, the temperature seemed to rise as well. Before we knew it, we were sweating and shedding as much clothing as possible. Climbing over 3000 steps is hard work! The weather was wonderful: blue skies and not a cloud in sight. Great for pictures. A group of local farmers had chased us up the wall and continued on the hike with us for about and hour and a half. They were experienced climbers and would offer their assistence on the tricky bits in hopes that we would buy one of the souvenirs that they pushed in our faces. Nice people mostly.
Other then the farmers, the Wall was completely deserted and all our own. The hike was over the Simatai part of the Wall, which was built during the famous Qing Dynasty (pronounced Ching). It is completely in it's original state and hasn't been restored, keeping the hoards of tourists away. There were quite a few crumbling and treacherous bits, but this just added to its mystique. Very authentic. Stretching thousands of miles, this world wonder snaked its way accross the mountain ranges before us. The passage of time and history leaving its marks along the way. In fact, I felt as though I had travelled back in time to when the Qing Chinese ruthlessly defended their kindom against the surging and relentless Mongolian army. Shooting arrows and throwing rocks from their stony fortress at the notoriously vicious warriors.
This had to be one of the most authentic and life-defining moments that I've experienced - standing on the Great Wall. Words can't desribe how beautiful and ancient it was. I only hope that the hundreds of pictures I took will do it justice.
Unfortuneately, Kelsea was unable to participate in the hike due to the problems she's been having with her knees as of late. She took the bus straight to the hostel on the other side, where we would be arriving at the end of the hike. She did, however, climb to the top of a few towers there, and was able to see one of the most scenic sections of the Wall. I thought it was one of the best views and a great representation of the Wall, so she wasn't totally left out.
The night dropped to minus twenty and we struggled to keep warm in our simple and rustic hostel, but you couldn't beat the views! The next morning, kelsea and I and some other girls hiked to the top again to watch the sun rise over the Wall. It was magical. Great Wall of China....check!
After returning from the Great Wall we caught a overnight train to Xi'an, the old capital of China for 2000 years. The train was decent enough, however it was pretty cramped - six of us to a very narrow cabin. We were all best friends by morning! And there was no curtain or door to the cabins so in the middle of the night I woke up to find an older Chinese gentleman staring at me in my bed...awkward. It was also super hot and stuffy so I didn't really sleep.
Once we arrived in Xi'an, we went straight to our hostel, which was in the very traditional style and the nicest so far. Our bed for the night consisted of mud and bricks stacked high with bedding on top. It's not as bad as it sounds, it's very clean and quite warm. Big improvement over the train beds. This is the traditional style of Chinese beds.
Xi'an is a very authentic Chinese city. It is not as modern as Beijing and quite a bit smaller. The markets are overrun with locals and tourists are more rare. Birds sing from their cages as spicy mixed aromas invade your nose from the various food stands. You have to be careful where you walk as tuk-tuks and mopeds speed past honking their horns at you. The Chinese are also very curious about westerners. They will stare and take pictures of you. They ask really personal questions like how much money you make and what you do for a living. It takes a little bit to get used to, but nice to chat with someone who knows English. The smog is really bad here. You can barely see more then a few blocks in front of you and all the buildings have a brownish grime on them.
The second day we headed out to visit Xi'an's premier attraction: the Terracotta Warriors. The warriors were created for the tomb of Emperor Qing (also the one who built the Wall). He was the first emperor of China and was very influencial in his time: unifying the country, creating formal currency and measurements, etc. When he died he wanted to take all the comforts of his kingdom with him in his afterlife. Originally, he wanted to burry his entire army alive with him but decided against it as so many had already died in the wars. So he decided to have an exact replica of each soldier made out of terracotta. Each statue is a different size, height, and with different faces. There are 8000 in total and we were able to see 6000 of them. The emperor also burried with him many animals, and also 1000 of his live concubines. Very impressive. We were awed; there they were row upon row upon row, and all different. His entire amry was immortalized for all eternity. The family names of the soldiers are inscribed on them as well so many Chinese can trace their ancestory here. It was truely amazing. I loved every minute of it. The carved horses were also very beautiful. Definitely worth the trip and another big check on the life's todo list.
The rest of the day went by quickly and before we knew it we were back at the hostel. Tonight we are going out for Chinese buffet followed by some wild Kareoke. Should be fun....or embarrassing, we'll see.
I was worried about my knee giving me problems, but I took a gamble and decided to do the grueling four hour hike anyways. There was no way that I would be passing up the experience of a lifetime! As we started the climb, the temperature seemed to rise as well. Before we knew it, we were sweating and shedding as much clothing as possible. Climbing over 3000 steps is hard work! The weather was wonderful: blue skies and not a cloud in sight. Great for pictures. A group of local farmers had chased us up the wall and continued on the hike with us for about and hour and a half. They were experienced climbers and would offer their assistence on the tricky bits in hopes that we would buy one of the souvenirs that they pushed in our faces. Nice people mostly.
Other then the farmers, the Wall was completely deserted and all our own. The hike was over the Simatai part of the Wall, which was built during the famous Qing Dynasty (pronounced Ching). It is completely in it's original state and hasn't been restored, keeping the hoards of tourists away. There were quite a few crumbling and treacherous bits, but this just added to its mystique. Very authentic. Stretching thousands of miles, this world wonder snaked its way accross the mountain ranges before us. The passage of time and history leaving its marks along the way. In fact, I felt as though I had travelled back in time to when the Qing Chinese ruthlessly defended their kindom against the surging and relentless Mongolian army. Shooting arrows and throwing rocks from their stony fortress at the notoriously vicious warriors.
This had to be one of the most authentic and life-defining moments that I've experienced - standing on the Great Wall. Words can't desribe how beautiful and ancient it was. I only hope that the hundreds of pictures I took will do it justice.
Unfortuneately, Kelsea was unable to participate in the hike due to the problems she's been having with her knees as of late. She took the bus straight to the hostel on the other side, where we would be arriving at the end of the hike. She did, however, climb to the top of a few towers there, and was able to see one of the most scenic sections of the Wall. I thought it was one of the best views and a great representation of the Wall, so she wasn't totally left out.
The night dropped to minus twenty and we struggled to keep warm in our simple and rustic hostel, but you couldn't beat the views! The next morning, kelsea and I and some other girls hiked to the top again to watch the sun rise over the Wall. It was magical. Great Wall of China....check!
After returning from the Great Wall we caught a overnight train to Xi'an, the old capital of China for 2000 years. The train was decent enough, however it was pretty cramped - six of us to a very narrow cabin. We were all best friends by morning! And there was no curtain or door to the cabins so in the middle of the night I woke up to find an older Chinese gentleman staring at me in my bed...awkward. It was also super hot and stuffy so I didn't really sleep.
Once we arrived in Xi'an, we went straight to our hostel, which was in the very traditional style and the nicest so far. Our bed for the night consisted of mud and bricks stacked high with bedding on top. It's not as bad as it sounds, it's very clean and quite warm. Big improvement over the train beds. This is the traditional style of Chinese beds.
Xi'an is a very authentic Chinese city. It is not as modern as Beijing and quite a bit smaller. The markets are overrun with locals and tourists are more rare. Birds sing from their cages as spicy mixed aromas invade your nose from the various food stands. You have to be careful where you walk as tuk-tuks and mopeds speed past honking their horns at you. The Chinese are also very curious about westerners. They will stare and take pictures of you. They ask really personal questions like how much money you make and what you do for a living. It takes a little bit to get used to, but nice to chat with someone who knows English. The smog is really bad here. You can barely see more then a few blocks in front of you and all the buildings have a brownish grime on them.
The second day we headed out to visit Xi'an's premier attraction: the Terracotta Warriors. The warriors were created for the tomb of Emperor Qing (also the one who built the Wall). He was the first emperor of China and was very influencial in his time: unifying the country, creating formal currency and measurements, etc. When he died he wanted to take all the comforts of his kingdom with him in his afterlife. Originally, he wanted to burry his entire army alive with him but decided against it as so many had already died in the wars. So he decided to have an exact replica of each soldier made out of terracotta. Each statue is a different size, height, and with different faces. There are 8000 in total and we were able to see 6000 of them. The emperor also burried with him many animals, and also 1000 of his live concubines. Very impressive. We were awed; there they were row upon row upon row, and all different. His entire amry was immortalized for all eternity. The family names of the soldiers are inscribed on them as well so many Chinese can trace their ancestory here. It was truely amazing. I loved every minute of it. The carved horses were also very beautiful. Definitely worth the trip and another big check on the life's todo list.
The rest of the day went by quickly and before we knew it we were back at the hostel. Tonight we are going out for Chinese buffet followed by some wild Kareoke. Should be fun....or embarrassing, we'll see.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Beijing, January 10, 2010
Beijing is a wonderful Asian city. It may take a few days to get used to, but certainly worth the effort. The last couple of days have produced some interesting (but fun) moments. We visited the Tibetan Lama Temple which was very beautiful and serene. We watched as Buddhist worshipers weaved their way through each of the intricately decorated shrines; the smell of incense filled the air as curls of smoke drifted from the brightly coloured sticks that they carried. We stood in the peaceful presence of six golden Buddhas - with our feet respectfully pointed away from his image. Monks, dressed in their robes, walked the grounds and encouraged us to spin the Tibetan prayer wheels for some luck. The last shrine in the series housed an 18 metre high golden Buddha; it's said that he was carved from a single piece of wood. We stood in his glorious and knowing presence, letting the calm wash over us. It was quite spectacular.
After we left the Lama Temple we felt at ease and one with the universe. However, a short visit to the chaotic stands at the Silk Market quickly abolished all of our inner peace. With the best brand-name and fashion label knock-offs, it was just too hard to resist. We wove through the maze-like aisles of this six-floor emporium. Purses, boots, bags and much more were thrust into our hands all with the promises of "special price" and "special sale." There was Louis Vouton, Gucci, Prada, Coach, Channel and so much more. We were grabbed, pushed and prodded into the vender's stalls - apparently "no" really doesn't mean "no" at the silk market. As traumatizing as the experience was, we were able to sharpen our haggling skills and wound up getting quite a few bargains... at least we thought they were bargains. There are three important things to remember when haggling over price 1) never seem too interested, 2) always start really low so that you have some room to adjust, and 3) walk away; the minute that you walk away you're gauranteed that they will drop the price by half. It's always important to remember that the "right price" is the price you pay. It is a suitable agreement between you and the vender. I wonder if any of these techniques will work back home in Canada?
After picking up some great Jimmy Choo and Marc Jacobs, we were side tracked by two sweet-looking girls at a silk scarf stall...or at least we thought they were sweet. They ended up physically holding us hostage in their stall with death grips on our arms and bags. They were trying to physically intimidate us and take our money. Things got ugly and I had to physically force them off us. They shouted curses and obsenities as we fled to a safer floor. It was pretty aweful, but we weren't gonna let it ruin our experience.
The next day we felt like visisting the modern side of Beijing which is equally if not more impressive. We began at the Bird's Nest Stadium and it's counter part the Water Cube. Very nice, and it reminded us of the upcoming Olympics in Vancouver that we will have to miss :( Next we went to see the CCTV building which is brand new and controversal. It looks like a giant pair of pants. Some Chinese find it offensive because it was built so close to the Forbidden City. I thought it was amazing - google it.
We were feeling a little peckish so we decided to head to the famous Snack Market where various Chinese delicacies are served by outdoor venders. The fare ranged from delicious and tolerable dumplings to seahorse, starfish, and scorpion kabobs. We tried quite a few things, those that looked somewhat edible, and found it to be quite nice. Tasty even!
Later in the evening our group had the opportunity to make our own dumplings for dinner. It is tradition to put a coin inside one of the dumpling so that whoever finds it will have good luck.
Unfortunately, I may have twisted my knee a little so I've been up in the room icing it - I didn't find the coin.
(FYI: We have made it safely to Xian! Stay tuned for coming posts.)
After we left the Lama Temple we felt at ease and one with the universe. However, a short visit to the chaotic stands at the Silk Market quickly abolished all of our inner peace. With the best brand-name and fashion label knock-offs, it was just too hard to resist. We wove through the maze-like aisles of this six-floor emporium. Purses, boots, bags and much more were thrust into our hands all with the promises of "special price" and "special sale." There was Louis Vouton, Gucci, Prada, Coach, Channel and so much more. We were grabbed, pushed and prodded into the vender's stalls - apparently "no" really doesn't mean "no" at the silk market. As traumatizing as the experience was, we were able to sharpen our haggling skills and wound up getting quite a few bargains... at least we thought they were bargains. There are three important things to remember when haggling over price 1) never seem too interested, 2) always start really low so that you have some room to adjust, and 3) walk away; the minute that you walk away you're gauranteed that they will drop the price by half. It's always important to remember that the "right price" is the price you pay. It is a suitable agreement between you and the vender. I wonder if any of these techniques will work back home in Canada?
After picking up some great Jimmy Choo and Marc Jacobs, we were side tracked by two sweet-looking girls at a silk scarf stall...or at least we thought they were sweet. They ended up physically holding us hostage in their stall with death grips on our arms and bags. They were trying to physically intimidate us and take our money. Things got ugly and I had to physically force them off us. They shouted curses and obsenities as we fled to a safer floor. It was pretty aweful, but we weren't gonna let it ruin our experience.
The next day we felt like visisting the modern side of Beijing which is equally if not more impressive. We began at the Bird's Nest Stadium and it's counter part the Water Cube. Very nice, and it reminded us of the upcoming Olympics in Vancouver that we will have to miss :( Next we went to see the CCTV building which is brand new and controversal. It looks like a giant pair of pants. Some Chinese find it offensive because it was built so close to the Forbidden City. I thought it was amazing - google it.
We were feeling a little peckish so we decided to head to the famous Snack Market where various Chinese delicacies are served by outdoor venders. The fare ranged from delicious and tolerable dumplings to seahorse, starfish, and scorpion kabobs. We tried quite a few things, those that looked somewhat edible, and found it to be quite nice. Tasty even!
Later in the evening our group had the opportunity to make our own dumplings for dinner. It is tradition to put a coin inside one of the dumpling so that whoever finds it will have good luck.
Unfortunately, I may have twisted my knee a little so I've been up in the room icing it - I didn't find the coin.
(FYI: We have made it safely to Xian! Stay tuned for coming posts.)
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Ni Hao! Jan 7/10, Beijing
The last two days have gone by in a whirl wind! We've been doing our duty as tourists and cramming way too much sight-seeing into each day. One our first day, Kelsea and I went to visit Tian An Men Square and the Forbidden City. What a sight! There's definitely a certain feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment when you get to see such an iconic part of the world and history. I'm sure we'll feel the same next week when we visit the Great Wall.
Entering the square, at first, was a little on the confusing side. Amidst the hoards of tourists and locals hawking their wares, we managed to make our way through. Once out in the open, we were able to take in the sheer vastness of the complex. Tian An Mean Square is the biggest public square in the world. The thousands of tourists looked like little ants in comparison. The size of it is almost too much to comprehend.
Another noticeable element was the police presence, which seemed to be in full force. I swear there was one policeman for every two tourists, and those were just the ones that you could see. Apparently, there are even more who are undercover in plain clothes. This high security has been in place since the 1989 pro-democracy student demonstrations that took place in the square.
At the head of the square is the entrence to the Forbidden City, crowned by an enormous portrait of Chairman Mao. Walking through the entrence gates led us into the pristine and palatial palace grounds, which was covered in beautiful sparkling snow. The Palace was first built between 1406 and 1420, contains over 800 buildings, and served as the residence to 24 Chinese emperors. Needless to say, it's pretty impressive. With history seeping from every corner, we wound our way through the imperial stomping grounds.
Being winter, there were very few tourists. The snow was an excellent backdrop to the elaborately tiled roofs and colourfully painted columns. What a wonderful and mystic place: walking in the footsteps of Chinese emperors.
On the second day we were able to check off a few other major sights. In the morning we climbed to the top of a small mountain in Jingshan Park. The mountain was dotted with several Buddist temples and offered and excellent bird's-eye-view of the rooftops of the Forbidden City as well as the rest of Beijing. We were tempted to join in with the many tai chi groups that were scattered through out the park.
Later we took a gamble on the subway that paid off and went to the Temple of Heaven. This is where the emperors came to worship their ancestors. It was equally as beautiful as the Forbidden City and nearly as big.
And finally, to cap off this wonderful day we decided to participate in a true Beijing tradition: Pekking Duck. We went to the best restaurant for duck in the city. Greeted by finely dressed maitridees, we were led to a glamourous dinning hall. We felt a little out of place in our grubby backpacker clothes; the wait staff definitely gave us the once over. However the duck was incredible and well worth the embarassment. The flesh was juicy and suculent and the skin was crispy and salty-sweet. Roll it up in a pancake with some cucumber, green onion, and sauce! Yum-oh! Duck must be like turkey because by the time we were finished this elaborate four course meal we were exhausted.
Back at the hostel, we fell asleep almost instantly. Our bellies were content as we dreamt about luxurious palaces and mystic temples.
(Please note: we are having difficulty gaining access to our blog in Beijing. Internet access in China is censored. Our updates may not be regular while we are here. However, we will do our best to keep you posted.)
The last two days have gone by in a whirl wind! We've been doing our duty as tourists and cramming way too much sight-seeing into each day. One our first day, Kelsea and I went to visit Tian An Men Square and the Forbidden City. What a sight! There's definitely a certain feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment when you get to see such an iconic part of the world and history. I'm sure we'll feel the same next week when we visit the Great Wall.
Entering the square, at first, was a little on the confusing side. Amidst the hoards of tourists and locals hawking their wares, we managed to make our way through. Once out in the open, we were able to take in the sheer vastness of the complex. Tian An Mean Square is the biggest public square in the world. The thousands of tourists looked like little ants in comparison. The size of it is almost too much to comprehend.
Another noticeable element was the police presence, which seemed to be in full force. I swear there was one policeman for every two tourists, and those were just the ones that you could see. Apparently, there are even more who are undercover in plain clothes. This high security has been in place since the 1989 pro-democracy student demonstrations that took place in the square.
At the head of the square is the entrence to the Forbidden City, crowned by an enormous portrait of Chairman Mao. Walking through the entrence gates led us into the pristine and palatial palace grounds, which was covered in beautiful sparkling snow. The Palace was first built between 1406 and 1420, contains over 800 buildings, and served as the residence to 24 Chinese emperors. Needless to say, it's pretty impressive. With history seeping from every corner, we wound our way through the imperial stomping grounds.
Being winter, there were very few tourists. The snow was an excellent backdrop to the elaborately tiled roofs and colourfully painted columns. What a wonderful and mystic place: walking in the footsteps of Chinese emperors.
On the second day we were able to check off a few other major sights. In the morning we climbed to the top of a small mountain in Jingshan Park. The mountain was dotted with several Buddist temples and offered and excellent bird's-eye-view of the rooftops of the Forbidden City as well as the rest of Beijing. We were tempted to join in with the many tai chi groups that were scattered through out the park.
Later we took a gamble on the subway that paid off and went to the Temple of Heaven. This is where the emperors came to worship their ancestors. It was equally as beautiful as the Forbidden City and nearly as big.
And finally, to cap off this wonderful day we decided to participate in a true Beijing tradition: Pekking Duck. We went to the best restaurant for duck in the city. Greeted by finely dressed maitridees, we were led to a glamourous dinning hall. We felt a little out of place in our grubby backpacker clothes; the wait staff definitely gave us the once over. However the duck was incredible and well worth the embarassment. The flesh was juicy and suculent and the skin was crispy and salty-sweet. Roll it up in a pancake with some cucumber, green onion, and sauce! Yum-oh! Duck must be like turkey because by the time we were finished this elaborate four course meal we were exhausted.
Back at the hostel, we fell asleep almost instantly. Our bellies were content as we dreamt about luxurious palaces and mystic temples.
(Please note: we are having difficulty gaining access to our blog in Beijing. Internet access in China is censored. Our updates may not be regular while we are here. However, we will do our best to keep you posted.)
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Arriving in Bejing
Well, this week didn't get off to a good start. First of all, some terrorist decides to try and blow up a plane in the states, creating a security nightmare! And secondly, a freak of a snow blizzard strikes Beijing, leaving the city in a stand still. The combination of these two events seemed potentially disastrous: canceled flights, hours in security, lost luggage, etc. Needless to say I was feeling a little anxious and perturbed. I did manage to succeed in driving my mother and boyfriend completely nuts when I entered crisis mode and starting forming contingency plans and obsessing over every little detail. Hey, if there was one thing that I learned from Girl Guides it was to "always be prepared."
Luckily, everything went surprisingly smoothly. I even found myself enjoying the grueling 13 hour flight from San Fran to Bejing. They fed us, gave us snacks, let us watch movies, and then they gave us blankets and pillows and turned down the lights for nap time. Delightful! Of course once we got to Bejing we would need all our energy to get through quarantine, immigration, and customs...oh my! Then we had to wait for a taxi cab in the brisk -11 air, which had no seat belts! Of course the cabbie's driving skills were top notch....not.
In the end we arrived safely to our little hostel next to the Forbidden City. It's not bad and it was cheap - 13 bucks a night for our own room! That being said, I'll be taking a shower over top of a toilet tonight!
Luckily, everything went surprisingly smoothly. I even found myself enjoying the grueling 13 hour flight from San Fran to Bejing. They fed us, gave us snacks, let us watch movies, and then they gave us blankets and pillows and turned down the lights for nap time. Delightful! Of course once we got to Bejing we would need all our energy to get through quarantine, immigration, and customs...oh my! Then we had to wait for a taxi cab in the brisk -11 air, which had no seat belts! Of course the cabbie's driving skills were top notch....not.
In the end we arrived safely to our little hostel next to the Forbidden City. It's not bad and it was cheap - 13 bucks a night for our own room! That being said, I'll be taking a shower over top of a toilet tonight!
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